Iguaçu Falls National Park Brazil—C.Helbig
A Jesuit priest is tied to a wooden cross and set afloat. He plunges headfirst down a monstrous waterfall and is swallowed up in the churning cauldron. That’s the opening scene from the 1986 movie The Mission, filmed primarily in Iguazú Falls—the mighty cascades between Argentina and Brazil. It wasn’t just that scene that left a big impression on me, it was the extraordinary scenery. I wanted to see the dense jungle shrouded in mist, hear the thunder of hundreds of waterfalls, and stand at the top of one of those falls, peering into the abyss. In April, I finally got to do all that (and more).
Iguazú Falls (Iguaçu in Portuguese), a UNESCO World Heritage Site on both the Brazilian and Argentinian sides is a busy place. I realized beforehand that I’d have to temper my expectations. While it’s impossible to completely avoid the crowded viewing balconies and throngs of selfie stick-wielding tourists, a little planning on “how to visit the falls” can go a long way in enhancing the experience and even finding some of The Mission drama and mysticism.
Brazilian or Argentinian side of Iguazú Falls?
That’s easy—both. The two sides give a very different perspective and experience. On our first day, we visited the Brazilian side. I’m happy we did this first as the Brazilian side offers an amazing overview of the entire waterfall network. We really got a sense of falls’ enormous size. On our second day, the Argentinian side was about getting up-close and personal with the falls. We explored miles of enchanting jungle paths with views at the top, bottom, and sides of the falls.
One of many incredible views at Iguazú National Park, Argentina—C.Helbig
Iguaçu National Park Brazil provides the big picture
Our first glimpse of the falls at the start of the 1200 m Path of the Falls trail is overwhelming. Looking toward Argentina, a giant crescent of waterfalls is carved into the jungle greenery. There are 275 cataracts (depending on the season) that span a width of nearly 3 km. They plunge down the basalt staircase into the murky green water of the Iguazú River in a show that’s equal parts raw energy and elegance. The Iguazú waterfall network is twice as high as Niagara Falls and three times as wide.
Water flow peaks during the rainy season (December-February). I’m sure it’s impressive but I rather like the look in April. The exposed rock and vegetation visible between the plummeting sheets of water provide great contrast for photo taking.
Our midmorning timing is perfect. Its not overly busy and the sun is positioned just right for photos.
Our first view at The Path of the Falls trailhead in Iguaçu NP, Brazil—C.Helbig
Multi-layered cascades tumble through jungle vegetation—C.Helbig
The views just keep getting better as we walk along the stunning trail, resplendent with lush vegetation, flowering shrubs and colourful butterflies.
The pièce de résistance comes at the end of the trail where a walkway snakes out over the river in front of a broad curtain of water called Floriano Falls. The end of the walkway hangs precipitously over another set of falls that plunge to the valley floor. From here we also see the famous 90 m high Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), the highest and mightiest cascades at Iguazú Falls. It’s an exciting teaser for the closeup views we’ll get in Argentina the next day.
Iguazú means “big water” in native Guarani Indian language. It’s a fitting name. There are plastic ponchos for rent but I want to feel the falls. I close my eyes, listen to the roar and get wet. For a moment I can imagine what it must have been like pre-boardwalks, helicopter tours and gift shops.
The power of the falls is spellbinding but I’m equally enchanted by the crazy tufts of grass that grow out of the rocks at the foot of the falls.
It’s hard to believe we’ve been here for 3 hours and the path is less than a mile long. We’ve gazed at the falls from every overlook and balcony. It’s almost too much to take in and we’re grateful for a coffee break on the pretty riverside deck of the Porto Canoas Restaurant.
Walkway at the end of The Path of the Falls trail in Iguaçu Brazil—C.Helbig
Love the tufted grass beneath the falls—C.Helbig
Exceptional views of the entire waterfall complex, Iguaçu NP Brazil—C.Helbig
View from Naipi Square tower, Iguaçu Falls NP Brazil—C.Helbig
Iguazú National Park Argentina for the intimate (and thrilling) waterfall experience
We are at the park gate by opening. The first thing most visitors do is hop on the Rainforest Train to see the Garganta del Diablo/Devil’s Throat. We resist this urge and head to the Circuito Inferior (the Lower Trail), one of several wonderful trails in the Argentinian Park.
Early in the morning, there are only a handful of visitors on the 1700 m trail. It’s incredibly peaceful. We are alone on a dramatic balcony watching Bosetti Falls crash to its first platform before its final plunge to the lower Iguazú River. Further along the trail we get to Dos Hermanas Falls. It’s not as big or powerful compared to others in the park but its graceful structure and jungle setting is idyllic beyond words.
Along the Circuito Inferior in Iguazú NP Argentina—C.Helbig
Bosetti Falls crash behind me
Glorious Dos Hermanas Falls, Iguazú NP Argentina—C.Helbig
We continue on to the Circuito Superior (Upper Trail). As the name implies, it runs along the top of several falls. Looking down over the edge of the falls is exhilarating but the place is starting to fill up and we prefer the intimacy of the lower trail.
We attempt to find a place to eat our packed lunch where we won’t be “attacked” by coatis (similar to racoons). They are awfully cute but have lost their fear of humans and will grab anything that is not vigilantly guarded.
The plan had been to take a boat across to Isla San Martín, a small island that sits smack in front of the falls, but the launch is temporarily closed for repair. It’s disappointing but we are quickly distracted by the masses of brightly coloured butterflies that gather in sunny spots.
Along the Circuito Superior in Iguazú NP Argentina
Resist the urge: Don’t feed the coatis!
The time has gone by quickly, and as planned we save the big attraction for last. The crowds have started to dwindle as we ride one of the last scheduled Rainforest Trains to the Garganta del Diablo trailhead. The 1 km path, along beautifully constructed boardwalks over wetlands and tributaries of the upper Iguazu River is lovely. We see giant catfish, exotic birds and many more butterflies.
It’s all very serene until reaching the grand finale where a balcony juts over the edge of the Iguazú River. A colossal wall of water funnels down a furious vortex—the Devil’s Throat.
I peer into the milky abyss; I feel the mist on my skin; I hear the thunderous roar; and I’m captivated by the primordial allure of this watery jungle. I’m experiencing the raw drama of The Mission (thank God minus the plunge down the falls).
Iguazú River plunging down the Devil’s Throat—C.Helbig
View to lower Iguazú Rover from Devil’s Throat platform—C.Helbig
If you go:
Plan on spending at least half a day in Iguaçu National Park Brazil. If possible, go there first. A better part of a full day (or more if you’re really into waterfalls) is needed to experience the amazing trails and viewpoints at Iguazú National Park Argentina.
We stayed in the border city of Puerto Iguazú, Argentina and it is easy to get transport to both parks via public bus, taxi or private transport arranged through hotels. Don’t forget your passport and check beforehand whether you require a visa entry. For Canadians, it’s easy to get a visa for Brazil online.
If your budget allows, it would be magical to stay at a hotel right by the falls. The Belmond Hotel in Iguaçu NP Brazil looks particularly dreamy and you’d have the falls all to yourself after the day trippers leave.
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I’ve been researching things to do in South America and stumbled upon this post. You certainly have a great eye for photos and equally great writing abilities.
Do you speak Spanish? If not, how do you find travelling around South America on your own ie no tour guide?
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Thank you for your kind comments. Iguazu Falls is a spectacular place and I hope you get to visit. I only know the most basic Spanish, but we never had any problems traveling independently. Many people (especially in tourism) speak some English and everyone was friendly and helpful. Some of the translate apps come in useful at times.
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Hi Caroline, trust you are keeping well. A friend of mine will be visiting the Iguazú Falls in May and I recommended your article to her. Interestingly enough when I searched for your Blog on my website I found that the article had disappeared… the likes were still there though (on an empty page). I have once again copied and re-posted. My website was recently updated to the ‘Gutenberg’ Editor (the ‘Block Editor) – not sure if that had anything to do with the problem. Anyway, your article has been re-blogged and I did whatsapp the link to Sylvia. Again thanks for the phenomenal article and for allowing me to re-post it.
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Hi Tony, thanks for recommending my article to your friend. If she has any specific questions I’m happy to try and provide extra feedback. She can use my contact page. Weird about the disappearance of the post on your site and thanks for reblogging again. I’m currently travelling in Sri Lanka. Amazing country. I’ll eventully get to blogging about it and get somewhat caught up on reading posts I’ve missed. Cheers, Caroline
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Thanks for sharing!! Amazing post and please check out my blog and I hope you enjoy what you read!! Thanks!
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Thanks for stopping by; much appreciated!
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I never realised just how large these Falls are. Great comparison of the two sides. Both clearly have much to offer.
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It is amazing how the two sides offer quite different experiences. I’m so glad we were able to see both. I too was surprised by the large area that the falls occupy.
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What an astounding visual treat, Caroline! I think your photos of Iguazú Falls are the best I’ve seen so far on any blog – the lighting is perfect as are the blue skies and the volume of water. And I also love how the jungle foliage has colonized every inch of available space between (and below) the falls. It looks like you went there at just the right time; you’d probably see a lot less at peak flow with all the mist coming from the many cascades. Thanks too for all the practical tips… I will be bookmarking this post for a future trip to South America.
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Thanks James. You are very kind! I’ve seen photos of the falls at peak volume and they do look very cool, but you’re right about the mist. I probably would have been anxious about my camera the whole time. We were lucky to have two perfect days of blue sky. I think it’s a great attraction throughout the year and I hope you get to visit.
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Holy wow. You really captured both the scale and the power of the up close views. Looks like such an amazing place!
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Thanks Meghan. It really is enormous and a challenge to capture the scale.
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amazing!!
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I liked them better than Victoria myself; top of the list.
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Hmmm, tough one for me! I think I like the actual falls at Iguazu better but there is something about the allure of Africa that made Vic Falls very special for me too. Plus we splurged on a helicopter trip at Vic and that was so cool.
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Caroline, excellent photos, as usual, and a superb narrative to accompany them. What a fantastic place. I’d have to contemplate a high-water vs. low-water visit as I’m usually attracted to the ‘raging river’ scenes. Would be a great add-on to a Machu Picchu trip we’ve been considering -which may favor the low-water season on the Iguazu River -I’ll have to check that out! Thanks for your post with the added trip-planning details.
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Thanks Mike. A potential trip to Machu Picchu….that’s very exciting! Now that I’ve seen some of South America I’m itching to return and Peru is high on my list. Seeing Iguazu Falls during high water would bring the thrill factor up even more (I’ve googled it…wow!). Don’t hesitate to contact me if you need more planning info on Iguazu.
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WOW! I was reminded of Plitvice lakes in Croatia by your post. They left me amazed but clearly Ignazu falls are way more massive. I have never been to South America but the falls are going to be right up there when I do plan my visit. Gorgeous pictures.
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I have seen pictures of these lakes in Croatia and they look absolutely magical. There are just so many beautiful natural wonders on this earth. Thank you for your comments and I hope you get to visit South America and the falls.
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I agree, too many beautiful places to see 🙂
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Fabulous photos Caroline, which brought back some wonderful memories. It’s a magical place!
Alison
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Thanks Alison. I recall your post about Iguazu and its magic. I believe it was you who got me excited about seeing all the butterflies. They are so amazing and so different from any I’ve seen. Cheers, Caroline
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Incredible photos of an incredible place! This one is definitely on my to-do list for someday in the future. Thanks for the excellent descriptions of both sides of the falls and which trails to take, etc.
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Thanks Diana. I can already picture you doing a handstand in front of the falls (but not too close!).
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Oh absolutely!
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Reblogged this on FitandFunNow.com and commented:
Beautifully written and the photos are stunning. Thank you so much for sharing. TT
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Thanks Tony for your kind comments and for reblogging!
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The Falls are one of the most impressive natural wonders I have ever seen and you’ve captured them wonderfully. We were lucky enough to stay at a hotel overlooking them. I can hear the thunderous crashing now when I close my eyes and am transported back in time.
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I agree Brian. By far more impressive than Niagara and Mike thinks they’re better than Victoria Falls, but I was really taken by Victoria too. You are lucky you got to stay at the falls.
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