Elfin Lakes Trail, Garibaldi Provincial Park—C.Helbig
I have raved about this hike in summer and now I’m going to sing its praises in winter. The snowy mountain scenery along the Elfin Lakes trail in Garibaldi Provincial Park, near Squamish, British Columbia, is stunning. Hiking it on a windstill day, under a cerulean sky is pure happiness for me. It’s still early in 2018, but our hike to Elfin Lakes and overnight at its backcountry shelter may well turn out to be the highlight of my year.
The trail to Elfin Lakes is 11 km (7 miles) one way with an elevation gain of 600 m (1969 ft). Estimated time to Elfin Lakes in winter is 3-5 hours. It varies greatly depending on conditions and how many photos you take along the way (over 200 for me, putting us at turtle pace). The hike is easily done as an out and back in a day (in good conditions) but when the scenery is this beautiful and there’s a warm overnight shelter at Elfin Lakes, why rush?
No fresh snow and a recent thaw and freeze had left the trail hard packed. Our Microspikes (crampons) worked perfectly, but we strapped our snowshoes to our packs just in case. The first part of the trail is a zigzag through the forest. It’s pleasant enough but we always get excited when we reach Red Heather shelter, at the 5 km mark, where the worst of the uphill slog is over and the terrain opens up to postcard vistas of the Garibaldi Massif and the Coast Mountain range. Take a look…
Mike and me with Mt. Garibaldi in the background
Wide open vistas on the trail to Elfin Lakes—C.Helbig
The meandering trail and blanket of white is a soothing scene—C.Helbig
I love the mountain views, but walking through what I call the enchanted forest is equally special. Sections of the regular summer trail have been rerouted to minimize avalanche danger, and these travel along the backside of the ridge where snow covered trees look like whimsical Dr. Seuss scenes.
The enchanted winter forest—C.Helbig
Snow covered trees are sculpted into fantasy creatures—C.Helbig
Mike having a standoff with a snow serpent—C.Helbig
One of my many favourite sections—C.Helbig
The combination of freezing, thawing and wind has left some very cool snow patterns. My photos don’t do them justice. They remind me a bit of the undulating rock formations that we saw in Coyote Buttes, Arizona (a temporary snow version).
Wave patterns on the snow covered hills near Elfin Lakes—C.Helbig
Cool quilted pattern on one of the frozen Elfin lakes—C.Helbig
As we approached the Elfin shelter, I wondered why it looked so much smaller than how I remembered it from summer. On closer look, I saw that 8-10 feet of snow had all but buried the ground floor. Snow steps have been built leading down to the ground floor entrance.
The upstairs houses 33 people in bunk beds and the ground floor has a kitchen with a couple of propane cooktops. In summer, water is easy to fetch at the adjacent lake; in winter it’s snow melt (takes longer, but at least there’s lots of it). The shelter is warm and has a nice communal vibe. I prefer the nearby campsite in summer, but in winter the Elfin Lakes shelter is a much appreciated amenity.
Elfin Lakes shelter, Garibaldi Provincial Park—C.Helbig
Another reason to make Elfin Lakes an overnight trip rather than rushing back is the sunset. In a word…sensational. What a way to end a perfect winter day in the backcountry.
Sunset at Elfin Lakes, Garibaldi Provincial Park—C.Helbig
It just kept getting better watching sunset at Elfin Lakes—C.Helbig
It started out overcast on our hike back the next day. I gave my camera a rest but pulled it out when I saw a gorgeous cloud formation. The stark image below is one of my favourites.
Planning Tips
Access: The trailhead is 85 km (52 miles) from downtown Vancouver via the Sea to Sky Highway. In Squamish, turn east onto Mamquam Road at the Canadian Tire Store. Follow the signs for Garibaldi Park Diamond Head. The trailhead is 16 km from the highway. The road turns to gravel and is quite rough. At higher elevation it can be covered with hard packed snow. A 4WD and chains are recommended.
Reservations: Reservations for the Elfin Lakes shelter and campground are now required year round. This can be done at discovercamping.ca. Book well in advance for weekends.
Trail Info: 11 km (8 miles) one way to Elfin Lakes. Elevation gain 600 m (1969 ft). Rated as moderately strenuous. 3-5 hours one way depending on conditions. The trail is clearly marked with orange snow poles. Heed avalanche warnings and detours. Avalanche danger ratings can be found at avalanchecanada.ca
Gear: Depending on preference and conditions, the trail can be done on touring skis, snowshoes or crampons. Wear/bring layers as conditions change quickly. Sunglasses, goggles, poles, are all helpful. If veering off the main trail, avalanche gear/training are essential. If staying overnight at Elfin Lakes shelter, bring a sleeping pad and bag, cooking pot (large pots for boiling water are available at shelter), eating utensils, headlamp. Your feet will appreciate a pair of old slippers.
Check out my post on summer hiking to Elfin Lakes and onwards to Opal Cone.
Summer view to Elfin Lakes, Garibaldi Provincial Park—C.Helbig
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An Empire of Ice.. ❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️ ❤ ❤ What else is there to ask for?
Places like these are the Ultimate Travel Destinations.. ❄️❄️❄️❄️ Of course, me being a Chionophile will appreciate a devastatingly cold weather in conjunction with Ice..!!
Elfin Lakes is on my radar now, and I shall visit it during the harshest of winters..!! Lovely sights and scenes, Madam.. 🇨🇦 ❤
Thank you so much for sharing..!!
This post of yours made me re-live My Journey in the Icy Realms of Russian Arctic, during December, to celebrate my Birthday..!! Your post has put me in a fix whether to revisit Russian Arctic or visit the Canadian Arctic during December 2020.. Let me find out which is the harsher one in general.. ❄️❄️❄️❄️
(Your expert reviews / criticism will be appreciated as always.. 😊😊)
https://theunclicheophile.com/2019/01/18/%d0%bc%d0%b5%d1%87%d1%82%d0%b0-the-quest-to-live-the-dreams-part-2/
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Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed the post. It is absolutely a winter wonderland and I liked the winter scenery on this hike at least as much, if not more, than the summer scenery. There is something very soothing and beautiful about a blanket of pristine white snow.
I’ve never been to the Canadian or Russian Arctic so I can’t offer you any advice. Happy planning for your next icy journey!
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You are spot on Madam with your observation. There is something very soothing and beautiful about a blanket of pristine white snow.
Thank you for your post and your good wishes Madam.. ☺️ I shall research separately about Canadian Arctic.. ❄️❄️❄️❄️
Since you like winters and ice, I believe you will find my article interesting (link shared in my previous comment).. Your suggestions / comments is highly sought for as always.. ☺️☺️
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Great photos. We are going up with a small group of scouts in a week. Looking forward to it.
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Have fun! This is yet another tremendously beautiful hike in Sea to Sky Country. Try to get to Opal Cone (past Elfin Lake) sometime. It’s probably a bit much for a scouts trip…not sure…but absolutely stunning!
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Looks like you two had a great hike. That landscape looks unreal!
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It’s definitely one of my favourite close to home hikes—winter and summer.
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Fantastic photos of the patterns in the snow, Caroline. Would love to see them side by side with your desert photos. If you’re ever in Colorado, you must try the 10th Mountain Division Hut System http://www.huts.org It’s very similar; all you need to carry is your food and sleeping bag. Put it on your list!
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Thanks Ron. I just took a look at your link. Wow…what an incredible network of huts and trails; they look really great. It’s on my list! (They probably get booked quickly?)
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What a winter wonderland you have captured! My favorite photo is of the enchanted forest which looks like a scene out of a Dr. Seuss book or “The Nutcracker.”
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The enchanted forest was very special. I’ve lived through many winters and never tire of seeing the beauty that snow can bring.
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Gobsmacked
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Mind-blowingly amazing! The whimsical snow-laden trees and wind patterns and views!!! Wow, I really wish I could see it in person. I’m so glad you had the opportunity to do (and share) this hike. I can see why it’ll be in contention for Best of 2018.
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The hike really had everything and we were so lucky to do it in perfect conditions. I never get tired of seeing those snow-laden trees; they make me smile!
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WOW….I need to go there!! Your pictures are amazing. And I can totally see why you’d want to stay the night, that sunset is amazing.
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Thanks Ashley! It’s so relaxing staying the night and a bonus to get more time in that scenery.
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Now I really can’t believe I am going to type this, but I think I might actually prefer to do this hike in the winter! The fantastical snow scenes, the cozy hut, the bracing air – all sound perfectly splendid. I know I’ve said it before, but you are so lucky to live so close to such amazing outdoor activities; I’m always envious of your proximity to great hiking options. Great photos!
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I’m inclined to agree about the winter Lexi, though you really have to catch a good couple of days. I’ve read terrible (and frightening) reports of people doing this in white-out conditions. We are lucky that we live close by and can be flexible with our timing. I was constantly checking the weather report the days leading up to the hike. Hope you’ll come check the area out for yourself sometime.
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Your wide open trail pics are great!!!! Really give a feeling. Love this post.
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Thanks so much! Glad I was able to capture the feeling of walking on this trail.
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I have to admit, I’m a little jealous. I would love to be there right now. The scenery is breathtaking and so are the pictures.
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I had a happy smile on my face through the whole hike and my good mood continues…
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Your photos are spectacular. I love the patterns in the snow creating texture and the little snow covered shelter. How glorious! And the trees heavy with fresh snow. Oh my…
Peta
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Thanks Peta. As you can probably tell by now, I’m a big snow fan, and its beauty continues to awe me every winter season. Cheers, Caroline
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Kinda makes me miss winter…. Although I have no clue how to ski and it seems that is where one gets the most benefit. But I did used to love a fresh snow fall in the burbs of Chicago when we would go with our Aussie to the nature preserve and walk for hours, no matter the weather.
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Caroline, what a spectacular trip!!!! Beautiful photos!
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Would love to do with you some time. Welcome home!
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Sing those winter praises of the Elfin Lakes trail loud and clear, Caroline. I’ll join in the chorus! A beautiful hike winter or summer, but that deep snow and the weight of heavy snow on the trees is something special. Mike was lucky the snow serpent didn’t unload on him! I’ve never seen anything like those wind patterns across the snow surface before… simply beautiful. Great photos as always.
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Thanks Mike. Until this hike I had also not seen (or noticed) these type of snow patterns. I guess it takes certain unique weather conditions. It’s amazing what nature can create.
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Wow, gorgeous photos!
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Thank you!
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Great photos and great winter trip!
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Thanks! It was an amazing mini trip.
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As usual some very lovely pictures. Winter has somewhat of a chaste simplicity but also a complicated grandeur. Wondering why walking versus cross country skiing? Looks like a great experience all in all. Oh, what did you eat and do people share?
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We don’t own touring skis, hence the walking. People bring all sorts of stuff to eat, from canned beans to pasta/sauce, to dehydrated meals… Since it was only one night, I made chicken curry/rice the night before, transferred to a plastic bag. Just heated it up in a small pot…yum! We bring oatmeal for breakfast and cheese, boiled eggs, candied salmon, chocolate, oranges…for lunch/snacks. Sharing is common on a trip like this where many schlepp in more than they need. Carrying weight not as big an issue as for longer trips. A couple of young guys enjoyed my leftover curry!
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